Tuesday, February 21, 2023

African Tour:
Kruger National Park part 2

Phalaborwa Gate

For our second day at Kruger, we entered at the same Phabeni Gate in the morning, but left through the Phalaborwa Gate in the evening. Instead of exploring the southern end of the park, we drove north from Phabeni and explored the middle section. Since Phalaborwa is about 170km from Phabeni, that meant a longer drive back to Hazyview, but everyone was happy that we did not have to wake up any earlier.

In addition to all the marked roads you can drive around and look for animals, there are designated areas of the park where you can get out of your car. There are also ample hiking trails. Driving is the best way to get around Kruger, but you do not have to stay in your car the entire time. The biggest rule, aside from the prohibition against murdering the wildlife, is to stay in your car any time you are close to any of the Big Five. They can all kill you effortlessly. Elephants and lions mostly do not, unless you piss them off. Leopards are more likely to run away. Buffalo and rhinos will kill you as a matter of principle.

Kruger is mostly untamed wilderness, with paved roads and plenty of signs. The park also houses a surprising amount of civilization, at least compared to the immediate environment outside its borders. There are gas stations near most of the gates, which are terribly convenient when driving around all day. There are a variety of places to sleep inside the park, from expensive all-inclusive lodges to small self-catering huts to tents in the grass, though all have to be booked months in advance. Some of the rest camps have middle of the road accommodations, restaurants, shops, gas stations, and something every game reserve needs, ATMs.

Sabie River from Skukuza Rest Camp

Since we left Hazyview early every morning and came back after sunset, we did most of our eating inside Kruger. Skukuza is practically a tiny village inside the park. Both restaurants served a wide variety of international cuisine, the main store had everything you could ever need while driving around a national park all day, and there was a nice walking path along the Sabie River. It also had a library and golf course, though I cannot imagine having enough time for either when the days were so short.

Lower Sabie Rest Camp

Though much smaller than Skukuza, Lower Sabie has the best restaurant in all of Kruger. The outdoor terrace overlooks the Sabie River, where you can watch elephants and lions get a drink while you eat lunch, yet every table is safely in the shade. Their store is more gift shop than supplies, but people have to buy coffee mugs with their names on them from somewhere.

Olifants River from Olifants Rest Camp

Olifants is a basic spot to take a pit stop and is mostly unremarkable. Except that it sits on a small hill over the Olifants River. There are multiple vantage points to stare at the river and watch elephants, lions, hippos, and crocodiles leave each other alone.

Tsende River from Mopani Rest Camp

Mopani has a decent little coffee shop and plenty of views of the Tsende River.

Guineafowl at Punda Maria Rest Camp

Punda Maria is the northernmost rest camp, and pretty basic. The tiny restaurant is more fast food than diner and the shop looks like a small 7-Eleven. But the area around the camp is a birdwatcher's paradise and several species of antelope hang out in the area. Unfortunately, there is no river nearby, so large mammal spotting is less likely.

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